Hazan (Classic Pasta Cookbook, etc.) attempts to make Italian cooking play in fast-paced American homes with such basic dishes as Orecchiette with Fresh Tomato, Basil, and Ricotta Salata and Poached Fish with a Savory Green Sauce. The recipes live up to their billing as simple preparations, but a book the subtitle is misleading when Stuffed Squid with Chick Pea Sauce requires 70 minutes of cooking (45 minutes or less apparently refers to preparation time, not total cooking time). And even though Italian ingredients are more available than in the past, many will struggle to obtain fresh sheep's milk cheese and other delicacies. Despite these inconsistencies, there is plenty of appeal in a collection that includes Fusilli with Cauliflower and Black Olives, Soup in a Bag (with a large dumpling cooked in cheesecloth then diced and added to the soup) and Mrs. Torti's Zucchini with anchovies. Home cooks may wish this collection hadn't been presented as something it is not; however, Hazan adeptly marries flavors in lively recipes. (Jan.) Copyright 1999 Reed Business Information, Inc.